This is a journal of my trip to Africa the summer of 1996. It includes a climb to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, a visit to the famous game parks, and the tropical island of Zanzibar.
I purchased my ticket at a travel agency for US$2000. round trip on KLM airlines. This included a stopover for three nights in Amsterdam. August is the high season so the fares run more at that time of the year. I could of probably got the fare cheaper but I wanted to go with a good airline as I heard delays and cancellations do happen. I booked 5 months in advance and the seats were filling up fast. I strongly advise making a reservation as soon as possible. Also try looking in the Sunday travel section of major city newspapers for good airfares. By the way KLM is a great airline to fly with. Very professional, on time and good food. Highly recommended. My flight originated in Denver via Amsterdam to Nairobi, Kenya.
Other preparations needed are immunizations and a valid passport. DO NOT put these off until the last minute or you will have a difficult time. Also be sure to have all the necessary visas. No shots are required but I was checked for yellow fever upon entry to Zanzibar. Check with your local health department. I had yellow fever, tetanus, thypoid, hepatitis A&B, meningoccl, and a polio booster. I also purchased Lariam for malaria and Diamox for my climb up Kili. Total cost over $350! Necessary but expensive.
After a long flight I arrived in Amsterdam around noon. Was very tired but did get to see some of the attractions of that great city. Enjoyed a wonderful 3 days there and then headed off to Africa.
I arrived in Nairobi about 11 am. Changed money at the airport. (Note: $US 100 bill will get you the best rate). The going rate was 57 Ksh per dollar. Customs was a breeze. As you exit the airport one is greeted by throngs of taxi drivers. Make sure they ARE a taxi by inspecting the permit on the window. Kenya is not a safe place and you always have to watch your back. Robberies and muggings are frequent , especially with jetlagged tourists. Do not accept food or drink from anyone as it is often drugged and you wake up with nothing! Not a way to start your trip. See the US State Department travel advisories on the internet.
The taxi from Kenyatta airport was $18. Always agree on a price before you go. I had an advance reservation at the Panafric hotel on Nairobi hill. I did not want to deal with finding a room at this point so I was glad I had a booking. It was a nice, clean room for $60. Quite more than what I was used to paying in third world countries but as I was to find out everything is expensive in East Africa! I made arrangements with the desk clerk for transportation to Arusha, Tanzania, the gateway to Kilimanjaro. One way fare to Arusha was $20. The trip was about 5 hours, stopping at the border town of Namanga to get your passport stamped. Entry into Tanzania required a visa which one can get at the border but advisable to acquire beforehand. (Note: do not take any pictures at the borders, officials for some reason will not tolerate it and will confiscate your film). The ride to Arusha was uneventful but interesting scenery. Did see some zebras and ostriches. The bus let us off at a large tourist hotel. There will be many people asking you to stay in their hotels and to arrange for safaris and Kili treks. I suggest to ignore all this, get a place to stay, and then seek a reputable trekking outfit and safari guide. I first checked into the Splendid Hotel. USD$20. Loud Arabic music will greet you at 5 am. as there is a mosque nearby . It is better to stay in another area of town. I did arrange a Kili trek at the hotel. Since I was by myself I had to join a group to go up the mountain. I paid USD700 for a 5 day Kili trek on the Machame route. This will cost more than the typical Marangu route but I found it more enjoyable. Less people and you camp out instead of staying in huts. Also that extra day helps in acclimatization.
I joined a group of four Spanish guys. I was picked up at the hotel and then we were on our way to the Machame gate to start our ascent. Guides carry everything so all I carried was my day pack. First day was uneventful. Most of the terrain was forests and giant heather. A four hour easy hike left us at the Machame hut. I put up my tent and relaxed. At sunset the clouds cleared and I got my first look at the mountain.
I was finally on my way to Kilimanjaro!
Day 2 consisted of a 3 hour steady climb to the Shira Hut, elevation 13,000 ft. The topography was changing to high desert. A broad plateau lay before us with the giant dome of Kili in the distance. I had to wait for 3 hours for my gear to arrive as my porter had a severe case of stomach cramps. After setting up camp we took a short hike to the edge of the Shira Plateau. Very interesting scenery. Dinner consisted of chapati, steamed veggies, potatoes and fried chicken. Hot chocolate to drink. Not bad. Slept well.
Today our destination is the Arrow Hut. The landscape was very lunar-like. Most of the day was moderate walking with little elevation gain. Many spend 2 days at the Shira Hut to acclimatize but my other trekking companions was to press on. I could feel the effects of the altitude but it really was not too bad. We stopped at the lava tower for lunch. An hour later we were at the Arrow Hut. (16,000 ft.). This is where we will push for the summit in the early hours of the morning. I pitched my tent and tried to relax. It was windy and got very cold as the sun went down. We all retired early as we knew tomorrow was a big day. Our day started at 2 am! Tea and biscuits and we were on our way. This was the hardest past of the trip. We go about 3500 ft. straight up. We all had headlamps and every piece of gear we had to keep warm. We ascended very slowly as the air was rare. I will never forget the sight of looking down and seeing a trail of lights down the mountain. It was a crystal clear night with millions of stars out. After 4 hours we reached the crater rim! The sun was just beginning to rise. I was on the roof of Africa,almost. We walked around some glaciers and then had to ascend some switchbacks to the summit at Uhuru. At 45 min. later, huffing and puffing, I had made it! It was truly an experience I will never forget! The view from the summit was like walking on a wing of a 747. You are way above everything. Also the summit is massive. Permanent glaciers abound. After about an hour and many photos later, we start our descent.
This long day was about to get longer. The decent was slow but not too hard (except on the knees). A few hours later we reached the Arrow Hut campsite. The porters had taken down our tents and were to meet us at our evenings destination. Down and down we went. Passed through some giant groundsels. After endless hours walking we finally arrived at our campsite, Barranco Hut. Thoroughly exhausted I fell asleep for a couple of hours till dinner. What a day! The next day we hiked out to the gate (14 miles) and caught a minibus back to Arusha. I rested for a couple of days and then booked a safari. I moved to the YMCA hotel for $10 a night. Much better atmosphere and location.
I used the same company to hook me up with a group that was leaving the next day. A 5 day safari cost me USD$300. This included all food, guide, and tents. ( I used my own). Our itinerary consisted of driving a Land Rover and stopping at Taranguire, Lake Manyara, and Ngorogoro Crater. Serengeti was out as animal viewing was poor due to the dry season. The campsites were somewhat rustic but very enjoyable. As soon as we entered Taranguire National Park we saw animals. Lots of elephant, zebras, wildebeests, and gazelles. The elephants were absolutely incredible as we were able to get very close to them. We also saw 2 leopards under a tree. Next stop was Lake Manyara. Not as much to see but lots of flamingos and a hippo pool. Did get to see some lions at a distance. Ngorogoro Crater was the best. This natural amphitheater is perfect for game viewing. I saw rhinos, elephants, zebras, hippos, warthogs, hyenas and got very close to 2 sets of lions and their cubs. A great place!
I have decided to go Zanzibar instead of climbing Mt. Kenya and Lamu-Mombasa on the coast. Kenya just did not feel safe to me at the moment. I arranged for a ticket to Dar Es Salaam (about $10). The trip took about 8 hours with a stop for lunch. Took a taxi I shared with 2 Germans to YMCA in Dar. The rooms were clean and a good value ($10). The next day I went to the waterfront to purchase a ticket on the Sea Express to Zanzibar. It was $30 one way but it was fast. There are cheaper alternatives. After 1 hour I arrived in Stonetown, Zanzibar. This had a decidedly Arab look and feel to it. You need to check in at customs upon embarking to get a stamp. There were many touts as usual to take to you to the " best "hotel in town. I went to the Blue Ocean ($20) which was very well located. A short walk to everything. Stonetown was great and very interesting to see. It was a former slave trading area. The streets are very narrow with many beautiful craved doors. The seafood was good but I ate mostly at an Indian restaurant. Take the Spice Tour as it has a lot to offer. After a couple of days in Stonetown it was time to head to the beach. Arranged to be picked up with a small group to go the coast. Soon arrived in Padje Beach. It was beautiful. White sand and swaying palm trees. I did not like the choices of accomadations so I went to the far south to Jumbiani Beach. I stayed at the Gohmani Guest House. The location was perfect. Up on a cliff and right on the water. It was somewhat rustic but very enjoyable. I had my own room ($10). Food was poor at the restaurant as was most of Africa but I still found enough to eat. I met Ronald, Dan, Irit, Shimona, Liz and Sonya. We all had a fantastic time swimming and enjoying the beach. I spent 5 days there and relished every minute of it. My Africa adventure was winding down and soon it was time to leave. I headed back to Stonetown and stayed at the Bottom's Up for $6. Much more noisy with a chicken crowing starting at 4am. (why do I always get the chicken?). The next day I took the Sea Express back to Dar. I had left my large backpack at the Y so I picked it up and then headed to the airport. I was off to Nairobi, Amsterdam, Minneapolis, Denver, and finally Phoenix. It was a very long trip home but one I will NEVER forget.
In summary Africa is a most interesting place. Animals that you will never see anywhere else in the world. Very friendly people. On the negative side you have to watch yourself always as it can be dangerous. Prices are high for a third world country. Also patience is required as things do not always work the same as back home. I will return to this continent as soon as I can as Africa holds a unique experience…. To be continued!